NUNEATON.
POPULATION, 4859.
A telegraph station.
FAIRS.— Feb 18th, May, 14th, and October, 31st.
The piquant Tudor or Elizabethan style...is so well adapted for buildings in which domestic requirements are to be studied. It likewise harmonises thoroughly with the English scenery.
A short distance further on the line crosses the Ouse by the viaduct of that name, one of the finest works in the kingdom, which is only excelled by the viaduct over the Dee on the Chester and Shrewsbury Railway. It consists of 37 arches, and its summit commands extensive views of the surrounding country.As we are whirled along it, the prospect presents us with an unbounded scene of beauty, the country round being steeped in the most luxuriant verdure, and hill and dale, woodland and pasture land, succeed each other in infinite variety to the very verge of the horizon.
And so I set off. Somewhat whimsically, the mile-long walk from the station felt off-putting. So I decided a better approach would be to take the train to Lingfield (literally just because I've never been there), and cycle the 90 minutes to get to the viaduct. Perhaps I was channelling my inner George.
Lingfield station wasn't build until after 1861, so sadly we don't have Bradshaw's commentary on the building. So, I'll repurpose his description of the countryside surrounding Statford: 'peculiarly English...but nothing striking'. Ooh, you bitch, George.
Closer inspection suggests that the builders were likewise off their hods on opium - the banded brickwork doesn't flow across to the extension on the left, and neither does brick bond. For that matter, the upstairs window is sporting a Gothic arch, whereas the ones beneath it are Romanesque, and the extension's doorways has lost the polychromatic brick trim. One chimney stack is missing its pots. It's like an architectural Spot The Difference. Also, there appears to be one CCTV camera and one big bin per person in the village.
Using Google Maps for cycling directions is the unholy trinity of frustrating, fascinating and deeply weird. Pootling merrily along a road, it'll suddenly decide to send you off past some bins (a recurrent theme) to a quagmire choked with nettles, mud and stiles which is notionally a path but is mightily bike-unfriendly. But, just occasionally, it'll uncover something rather lovely. Directing me down the back of a multi-storey car park in East Grinstead (here we go again...), the path improbably revealed itself to be a few miles of disused rail track, Worth Way. Lots of dappled light, passing under old bridges, and no cars. Delightful.
Anyway. We're not here for nature - we're here for opiate-addled inspection of Big Piles of Victorian Bricks. And, cor, it's a cracker.
HEIGHT, 96, feet.
ARCHES.—37, semi-circular.
BRICKS. Yes; 11 million, bricks.